A superb 3 day walk across the Lake District with my eldest son – a visit to Beacon Tarn, a swim in and a wild camp at Blind Tarn, exploration of the world’s oldest slate mine, a cloud inversion, a delectable swimming hole in Upper Eskdale, a crossing of The Great Moss, an ascent of England’s highest peak, a wild camp overlooking Great Gable, a descent down leafy Borrowdale and a wander along Derwentwater’s beautiful west shore, where we enjoyed yet another swim. A hugely enjoyable walk, albeit hard going in the hot sun at times.
Day 1 – 31st May 2023 – Greenodd to Blind Tarn – 14 miles
We caught the X6 bus, which runs hourly from Kendal to Barrow in Furness – this dropped us off in the centre of Greenodd village at around 10:00. Our plan was to head west and join the Cumbria Way, which would lead us northwards towards Torver, but first we had to suffer half a mile of unpleasant road walking along the side of the pathless A5092 – it was a relief to escape up a minor road into the fields.
Once off the road, we were able to relax and enjoy the scenery. The sun was out, the fields were full of flowers and the hawthorns were absolutely laden with blossom – it seems to be a particularly good year for them. We also spotted the first dog roses of the year – I snapped a photo on my phone and sent it to my wife, as they are one of her favourite flowers.
I discovered that we were just off the edge of the South West Lakes map, so I had to rely upon my son and his phone for navigating our way through the labyrinth of fields – the path was not well used so care was needed.
We crossed a road and headed on up into some cool woods, the shade welcome in the strong sun. The path then took us across a wild and boggy area grazed by cattle before joining a minor road. I had intended that we walk over Lowick Common, but I was suffering from hay fever and didn’t fancy walking through any more tall grass, so I persuaded my son that we should follow the minor roads around the south of Lowick Beacon, and join the Cumbria Way at Knapperthaw – this proved to be a good choice, easy going through lovely country. A pleasant lane and a climb up through fields took us to Gawthwaite, where we crossed the A5092.
On a previous walk I had noticed that the character of the country changes here – we were leaving the lush meadows behind and entering wilder country with a bit of a ragged edge, more to my liking. I also noticed that there was less pollen about, much to my relief, but I was glad when my son suggested that we stop in the shade of some trees to make a brew and have a rest – I got the Millionaire Shortbread out whilst he fired up his gas stove. Skylarks were singing their hearts out on the moors above. Whilst we were resting we were passed by a group of people doing the Cumbria Way, intending to complete it in 4 days – they had light packs and were staying in guest houses.
After this much needed break we continued northwards, around the shoulder of Great Burney, rather than along the Cumbria Way. The views ahead were excellent, the Coniston Fells were laid out before us, and we caught sight of Coniston Water, with Fairfield beyond. We skirted around the edge of the open access land of Subberthwaite Common rather than follow a footpath across the shallow valley, perhaps a mistake as it was a longer route, but I wanted to minimise any re-ascent, as I was beginning to suffer in the heat. There were a lot of tents at Birch Bank campsite, some of them absolutely huge, a contrast to the tiny homes that we were carrying on our backs. We agreed that ‘less is more’ when it comes to camping.
We briefly re-joined the Cumbria Way before again leaving it as we traversed around the slopes of Tottlebank Heights (I love some of the Cumbrian place names). After descending into the head of a remote valley we were faced with a struggle up Wool Knott, I was going very slowly and my son got well ahead – thankfully he waited for me in the shade of a tiny hawthorn tree, just big enough for the two of us to shelter from the sun whilst I recovered.
From here the worst was over, and we descended easily to Beacon Tarn. Perhaps a dozen people were enjoying the water, but my son’s mention of leeches, which thrive here, tempered my enthusiasm, so we pressed on, following the route of our walk from Ulverston to Torver the previous year.
We passed a flat bottomed valley, which obviously once held a tarn, before crossing a more open area to Throng Moss Reservoir on Torver Low Common, the magnificent Coniston Fells noticeably closer now. I was again tempted to have a dip, but my thoughts were now turning to a pint in the Wilson Arms in Torver – needless to say, beer won! We chatted to a couple who were birdwatching from a spot above the tarn – I said that I had been tempted to have a swim and the man mentioned leeches, ‘Big leeches’, so I was glad that I hadn’t! I wouldn’t have wanted to disturb their quarry in any case.
Only an easy mile now separated us from Torver, so we pressed on past a picturesque mill house and along shady lanes to our waiting refreshment in the Wilson Arms – a pint of iced orange juice followed by a pint of Loweswater Gold, enjoyed in a shady spot in their beer garden.
We lingered in the pub until past 4pm before venturing out into the sun again. We took the obvious route up to the Walna Scar Road, following a track that we have previously used – this climbs through woodland before levelling off somewhat as it heads across more open ground towards a substantial flooded quarry. The route steepened again as we struggled onwards towards the Walna Scar Road, which we were relieved to reach.
Only a mile now separated us from Blind Tarn, our objective, but we were faced with a steep climb up some zig zags – thankfully Brown Pike above us casts a long shadow and we finally escaped the sun.
Blind Tarn has proved elusive to me in the past, but I had finally succeeded in visiting it last November, so now I knew that we had to follow the obvious quarry incline to reach it, a short climb, but our legs were tired! A path traverses below the quarry spoil tips to the tarn, and we set about finding a couple of pitches for the night, my son in his bright orange Black Wolf ‘Mantis UL1’, purchased in Australia.
As soon as the tents were up I went to investigate the tarn, determined to cool off. Unfortunately this wasn’t the five star bathe that I had hoped for, as the water level was low and the tarn very shallow, and surprisingly silty when I disturbed the weed covered floor. I did manage to float around on my back for a while, and the surroundings were magnificent.
A volcanic meal of Nong Shim ‘spicy gourmet’ Shin Ramyun noodles followed, but the midges appeared, eventually driving us into our tents as the light started to fade.
Day 2 – 1st June 2023 – Blind Tarn to Scafell Pike – 13 miles
I didn’t have the best of pitches, rather lumpy, so consequently I didn’t have the best night’s sleep, but I got enough, and was awake for the dawn. Unfortunately we were denied a proper sunrise as the bulk of the Old Man of Coniston blocked the horizon, but it was good to be up and about early. My son had bought a 2 season down sleeping bag, and his Australian tent was airy, to say the least, so he had been cold in the night, whereas I had been warm enough even without a baselayer. After a leisurely breakfast we broke camp and were on our way.
Rather than re-trace our steps down the quarry incline, thereby losing height unnecessarily, I persuaded my son that we ought to climb the incline and take a look at the quarry workings above the tarn. This proved to be a good decision, as the incline allowed us to gain height easily, and gave excellent views of the tarn.
But better was to come – whilst we were having a poke around the workings, I noticed a cavern entrance, ripe for further investigation – out with the headtorches!
We cautiously entered, and the passage widened out into a huge cavern immediately, with an obvious route leading onwards into the mountain. We spotted the remains of railway sleepers, and, further in, the iron tramway tracks were still in place. All too soon, we came to the headwall and had to re-trace our steps.
Note – Gold Scope Quarry is apparently the oldest slate mine in the world, the cavern dating back to around 1500 AD. I couldn’t find much information about it on the internet, but more details can be found on the 28dayslater website.
After this exciting interlude we headed south west along a narrow path that cut across the steep hillside – this eventually joined the Walna Scar Road. A short climb bought us to the top of the pass – I was in the lead and the view stopped me in my tracks – a sea of cloud was blanketing Dunnerdale and the lower hills to the west. My son hurried on up to join me. Strangely, the last time that I had been over Walna Scar, I had enjoyed a temperature inversion to the east.
We continued down the Walna Scar Road into Dunnerdale, the shifting clouds alternately hiding and revealing lower hills such as Caw. But the cloud sea was short lived – by the time we reached the bottom of the valley, the sun had largely burnt the clouds away.
After following the minor road up the valley through bluebell woods for perhaps half a mile, during which time we caught sight of roe deer, we took a path down through fresh green bracken to the stepping stones over the River Duddon. I have in the past baulked at these, as the river had been rather full, but today they were easy, and we crossed in a trice. On the far side my son announced that he would like to stop for a brew. I had a snack, but quickly headed up the hillside to escape the midges gathering at the water’s edge, waiting in the cool shade of the many beech trees whilst my son enjoyed his tea.
We continued on up through the woods, losing the path at one point (my fault), before emerging into more open country, where we crossed Grassguards Gill by means of a foot bridge. This area is part of the Hard Knott Forest, scene of a major re-wilding project after clearance of the conifer plantations. The natural re-growth is lovely – I even spotted some young aspen saplings spreading outwards from their parent tree, the leaves rustling in the breeze in a distinctive manner.
After passing through some of the remaining conifers, we reached the top of the pass and started the descent into Eskdale. This is a lovely route, the path traversing across the steep hillside as it descends towards the foot of Hard Knott Pass. The views were lovely, both towards shapely Bowfell, which dominates Upper Eskdale, and down the valley over bluebell covered slopes towards Illgill Head. Bowfell is one of the most photogenic mountains in the Lakes, in my opinion – on a par with Great Gable and Blencathra.
We stopped for a break in the welcome shade at Jubilee Bridge, doing our best to ignore the horde of feral children throwing stones against boulders in the dried up beck.
The heat was really building now, and we were reluctant to leave the shade as we knew that we were faced with some tough going up Throstle Garth followed by the daunting climb up Scafell Pike in the afternoon sun.
A dip in the River Esk was called for, but all the obvious swimming holes were occupied, well known Tongue Pot in particular had attracted several noisy groups, with music blaring, young men shouting, dogs running about and a barbecue on the go. It was with some relief that we crossed Lingcove Bridge and started the ascent of Throstle Garth, escaping the crowds at last.
I suffered in the heat though, and lagged behind my son as I struggled up the path in the hot sun. Eventually the worst was over, and we spotted a likely swimming hole just above where the Esk plunges down into a ravine.
The water was heavenly, not deep enough to swim properly, but deliciously cool, and all the more appreciated after our hot climb up Throstle Garth. Above the pool was a small waterfall, this made a perfect wild jacuzzi, the sensation of the water cascading over my shoulders and bubbling around me was sheer bliss.
After a prolonged dip, I crawled out of the water and basked in the sun to warm up – only to head back in for another dip! Eventually we had had enough, and sat on the rocks to dry off, watching Beautiful Demoiselles flit back and forth above the pool. Beautiful Demoiselles are Britain’s largest and most spectacular damselfly, and they really do live up to their name.
We lazed around until 4pm, by which time the sun didn’t seem quite so fierce – it was time to press on.
A short distance further on, I took my eye off the ball and ended up stumbling into what must be the only patch of bog left in the sun parched Lake District, in over my boots, and I went flying. My aluminium Leki walking poles dug in, and I managed to bend one of them, but by careful application of brute force I managed to straighten it, not something that I could do with a carbon fibre pole!
The Great Moss was around the next corner, with the Scafell Range beyond, magnificent scenery, with a grandeur not seen anywhere else in England.
Our planned route was up the rocks beside Cam Spout and then up the valley beyond to Mickledore, from where we would climb Scafell Pike. We then planned to descend to Lambfoot Dub, a tiny tarn on the western slopes of Great End, where we would camp the night.
Crossing the Great Moss and the River Esk was easier than normal, as conditions were so dry, and we soon arrived at the foot of Cam Spout, a derisory trickle rather than the usual white ribbon of water cascading down its ravine. We filled up our water bottles in anticipation of a long, hot and potentially dry climb, incidentally adding 2kg to my already heavy pack.
The route up the rocks beside Cam Spout was more bark than bite, for most of the way a thin path, not obvious from below, zig zagged up the slope beside the rocks, and the steeper section at the top was amply provided with reassuring “jug handles”, just as well as I felt very clumsy under the heavy pack.
Beyond, the gradient eased somewhat, but I was feeling a bit done in, and lagged behind – my son eventually waited for me and let me take the lead.
Up we plodded at a snail’s pace, slowly approaching the forbidding cliffs of Broad Stand, scene of some moments of high anxiety when I rashly soloed it in 1984, not something that I would recommend as the crux is a polished V.Diff rock climb with considerable exposure.
The ground steepened and the going underfoot de-generated into a loose scree slope, like trying to go up a down escalator, as I described it at the time. Higher still, most of the smaller stones have been dislodged by the passage of many feet, leaving behind unstable larger rocks embedded in a matrix of powdery dust – care needed! We eventually won through though, and emerged onto the Mickledore saddle below the coffin like mountain rescue shelter.
After catching our breath, we continued on to the summit of Scafell Pike, the 150m of ascent over boulders seemed easy after what we had just done. We arrived on top at 6pm.
Of course we were not alone – several people were hanging around the summit plinth, and some were even flying a drone! After a summit selfie for the family WhatsApp group we beat a retreat.
I had originally contemplated carrying on over Broad Crag towards Great End, before dropping down a steep gully to Lambfoot Dub, but a better idea came to mind – descend along the Corridor Route and then head up around the south of Round How before descending gentler slopes northwards to Lambfoot Dub.
On the descent down towards the head of Piers Gill I realised that I was struggling a bit, my right knee started twinging and I was absolutely knackered, losing concentration as I negotiated the tricky path. I suggested that we leave Lambfoot Dub for another day and camp at the small tarn just beyond Piers Gill, south east of Middleboot Knott – my son readily agreed – I think that he had had enough too. I had earmarked this beautiful spot as a possible wild camping pitch whilst ascending the Corridor Route in 2018.
We soon had the tents up and got some water on the boil for some food, Nissin sesame noodles enhanced by the addition of chopped up kabanos sausage, with a dram to finish – I had carried up a miniature of Highland Park single malt, originally purchased in Orkney. Time to relax and take in our magnificent surroundings!
Day 3 – 2nd June 2023 – Corridor Route to Keswick – 14 miles
I was asleep almost as soon as I got into my sleeping bag, and I must have been exhausted because I slept like a log right through until 0230. Shortly afterwards, I heard a group walking along the nearby Corridor Route, quite likely doing the ridiculous ‘3 Peaks Challenge’. I dozed until it started getting light, and then we both got up and got a brew on, hoping to catch the sunrise. It was not to be though – as the sky lightened it became obvious that the sun would rise behind the bulk of Great End. I wasn’t really that bothered though, as the sky was absolutely gorgeous.
My son hadn’t felt the cold quite as much as during the previous night, as I had lent him my padded gilet – this was despite him finding a patch of frost on his flysheet! We packed up and were on our way around 0600.
Our original, rather ambitious plan had been to climb Great Gable before continuing on towards Keswick via Honister and possibly Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson. But my knees objected to this plan and my son readily agreed to take an easier option, a walk down the length of Borrowdale and along the western shore of Derwent Water. As well as being mostly level, this route would have the advantage of being shady, as the path passes through a lot of woodland.
But we still had the Corridor Route, including the so called Bad Step to negotiate – I took my time, trying to favour my sore knee. The Bad Step is not nearly as bad as its name suggests, in fact we had got our spaniel down it in 2018.
Once at Styhead Tarn the going improved, but I was somewhat taken aback by the number of tents pitched there – my son counted sixteen! Not my idea of wild camping at all. An easy descent took us down to Stockley Bridge at the head of Borrowdale
The rest of the walk down Borrowdale was most enjoyable, despite us both feeling the effects of our labours – competing cuckoos in the woods above Seathwaite, beautiful rocky pools near the youth hostel, shady riverside embankments adorned with broom in full bloom, cool oak rainforest, shingle banks and calm pools in the shrunken river, scone with jam and clotted cream in Grange, washed down by copious amounts of tea, more shade along the wooded western shore of Derwent Water, and another swim to cool off along the way. I had forgotten quite how beautiful Borrowdale and Derwent Water could be. Much of this day’s route followed the Cumbria Way, and we arrived in Keswick just after 2pm.
This had been an excellent 3 day outing with my son, 41 miles that were varied and full of interest. It was quite a challenge at times, but this only served to make the walk more memorable and rewarding.
Some notes:
- The X6 bus to Greenodd runs every hour between Kendal and Barrow in Furness.
- The 555 bus runs every half hour between Keswick and Kendal, and onwards to Lancaster.
- We deliberately chose to walk from south to north so that the forecast strong sun would be mostly at our backs – this was a decision that we were grateful for!
- On the first and last day our route followed the Cumbria Way at times – this runs for 71 miles (112km) from Ulverston to Carlisle and picks a mostly low level route across the Lake District.
- The stepping stones over the River Duddon can easily become impassable in wet weather.
- The cafe at Grange is recommended, the pots of tea are generous, to say the least! The cafe has plenty of outdoor seating.
WildAboutWalking 
What an excellent walk, with such good weather too. I got a similar great weather window in the Cairngorms 28-31st May. Such a blessing. Hope your knee soon improves. Loved the photos
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It was a superb walk, made all the better for having my son for company, fresh from his adventures in Australia.
Looking forward to your account of your Cairngorms adventure.
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My Cairngorms walk report is now live. Likely to need some further editing… Keep meaning to ask, why is your site not directly viewable on wordpress.com – is this a feature of it being hosted on your own server or the like?
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Enjoyed your Cairngorms report. In answer to your question, I have absolutely no idea!
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