I arranged to meet a friend, Reg, at the Forest View Walkers Inn in Byrness, just a few miles from the Scottish border, so that I could accompany him for a few days as he walked the Pennine Way from North to South. Three trains and a later than anticipated bus got me to Forest View shortly after 4, where I found Reg waiting for me after a tough day walking from Hut 1 in fierce winds. Laura and Oli, who run Forest View, were most welcoming, and it wasn’t long before I was sat in a comfy chair with a steaming mug of tea in my hand, chatting about the hills.
22nd April 2023 – Byrness to Bellingham – 16 miles
After an excellent breakfast of scrambled egg and smoked salmon, Reg and I were on our way by 0730, with our sights set upon Bellingham, some 16 miles away. The weather was rather gloomy, but I enjoyed the first couple of miles heading down the valley through mature pine woodland. It wasn’t long before the long drag up into Kielder Forest began though, a few miles of rather monotonous going along forest roads.
We eventually turned off the forest road onto a path – this in the past was a notoriously boggy section, but tons and tons of stony aggregate has been laid, providing a dry surface to walk upon. Unfortunately the surface was rather rough, and I had to watch my step – but I shouldn’t grumble, it was a lot better than wallowing in bog (we had plenty of that later in the day).
The weather worsened as we made our way along the edge of the forest over Brownrigg Head, with heather moorland to our left, and we stopped to don more waterproofs in the shelter of a larch tree as we started to descend southwards towards Padon Hill. I quickly had my waterproof trousers on, and started to feel a bit cold whilst Reg was sorting his poncho out, so I pressed on down the steep and in places very boggy slope. I was only wearing a short sleeved baselayer under my waterproof – I actually prefer to run a bit cold rather than sweat in a fleece when I am exerting myself.
I slowed down whilst crossing some flagstones at the foot of the climb, so that Reg could catch up – he had a bit of a mishap on the boggy section, and now had very wet feet!
The view ahead was uninspiring to say the least – clouds shrouded the top of Padon Hill, and the whole scene was rather gloomy. Neither of us thought it worthwhile going out to the monument that marks the highest point, continuing southwards over the shoulder of the hill instead. More soggy walking bought us to a minor road, where we stopped for a brief rest.
In the distance I could see two people coming towards us, whom we passed on the flagstone path, a couple who had walked through from Edale. Shortly afterwards we met two other walkers, also doing the Pennine Way. This heartened me as it meant that we must be around the half way mark on our walk to Bellingham – in actual fact we were well past half way, as we had started early and had been setting a good pace.
We continued on over Whitley Pike, in thick mist now, and crossed some very wet ground as we headed south eastwards across desolate moorland. After crossing a muddy gutter masquerading as a stream, we encountered ground had been churned up into a quagmire by quad bikes, with tracks heading in multiple directions, and we became a bit unsure about the way ahead (Reg had gone off route here in the past). Reg consulted the GPS app on his phone, which indicated that we were well off route, the Pennine Way being a few hundred metres to our west, yet we had clearly been following a well used path. I decided to get the map and compass out, and realised that we had just crossed Black Sike, and that heading South East would keep us on track (in actual fact, the GPS app was technically correct – I later compared OS mapping with satellite imagery, and the main path that we were on does actually run 200-300 metres to the east of the marked right of way).
After struggling through the confusing quagmire, we did find the continuation of the path, much to our relief, and continued south eastwards (I checked) through the mist over a soggy featureless plateau before dropping down out of the clouds to a minor road.
The worst was now over – we only had a few miles to go and the way ahead was clear. After a snack, we headed around the side of the next hill, passing beneath some trees before passing a farm. At a slatted bridge I found the remains of a walking pole, the bottom section snapped clean off – easy to see how that had happened – I have learnt to be careful with my poles on slatted bridges and walkways! I decided to do a good deed and take the remains away.
We encountered more bog as we traversed across the hillside towards Bellingham, but the walking was more pleasant now – a line of crags broke the surface on the hillside above, the skylarks were singing, and the weather was improving.
After tea and cake in an old railway carriage, we made our way through historic Bellingham to the camp site on the southern edge of town. A few pints in The Cheviot finished off a long day!
23rd April 2023 – Bellingham to Twice Brewed – 15 miles
I enjoyed a good night’s rest in my tent, during which I heard the haunting call of a nightjar. The dawn chorus awoke us early, and we were on our way just after 0700. Our destination today was the Twice Brewed pub on Hadrian’s Wall. Thankfully the weather was much improved, and I was looking forward to crossing country new to me.
We headed out of town along the road before the Pennine Way tackled a hill topped with a radio mast, the climb welcome as it warmed me up. On the slopes were the remains of lazy beds from medieval times, the low rounded ridges still clearly visible through the grass. After passing the radio mast the path turned downhill and passed through Shitlington Crags, before descending to Houxty Burn, the trees along the riverbank a pleasant contrast to the bare farmland above.
It had become apparent to me that we ware walking ‘against the grain’ of the land, up and over a series of parallel ridges divided by steep sided valleys. After the next climb we took a break on a broken stone gatepost, a handy seat, and had a quick breakfast of cereal bars.
Pleasant lanes and tracks took us to the next valley, that of the Warks Burn, an altogether more substantial obstacle. We descended past primroses and gorse into the deep valley, before climbing yet another steep slope to get out. The country became a bit wilder now – we left the farmland behind and entered boggy moorland, the path churned up by scrambler bikes in places. But ahead we could see the plantations of Kielder Forest, and I for one was looking forward to some easier walking along forest roads.
Reg called a halt, and we got a brew on – Reg has made a copy of my alcohol stove setup, based upon a titanium mug, a Speedster alcohol stove, and a wrap around aluminium windshield. We were soon enjoying fresh coffee – I had filled a few drawstring filter bags at home.
After this pleasant break, we continued on our way along forest roads and paths, enjoying the improved weather – the sun even managed to come out from time to time! But large areas of forest had been cleared as a consequence of the damage caused by Storm Arwen which struck in November 2021. The stumps and brash made for a desolate scene, but it is amazing how quickly forests recover from such destruction. It was in this area that we met our only fellow Pennine Wayfarers of the day, three ladies heading north at a fast pace.
We entered anther area of boggy moorland below Hawk Side, which was really waterlogged. Reg’s boots were still a bit wet after yesterday’s mishap, and now standing water splashed onto the back of my ankles as I squelched my way across the bog (I was not wearing gaiters). This eventually seeped down onto my feet, but on the whole, my Anatom Braeriachs had once again done well in keeping my feet largely dry, despite the very wet conditions.
Another short section of forest walking followed, and then there it was at last- the ridge along which Hadrian’s Wall runs visible beyond the trees. This turned out to be a little further away than it looked, as we had a couple of minor ridges to cross first. The walking was good though, the most enjoyable so far, with the craggy ridges and Greenlee Lough adding interest (also of interest was the use of the Irish ‘Lough’). We started seeing a few more people about, out for a day walk, a foretaste of busy Hadrian’s Wall ahead.
Whilst passing some reedy areas in the valley between the ridges I heard a strange continuous ‘chirring’ sound, a warbler of some kind, but despite my best efforts I couldn’t spot it (I later identified this online as a Grasshopper Warbler).
One last climb and we were there – Hadrian’s Wall at last! After a snack of Orkney oatcakes and Black Bomber cheese we continued westwards along the wall, admiring the almost 2000 year old stonework, and the commanding views from the ridge.
We descended towards Crag Lough (another ‘Lough’) before ascending pleasantly through woodland, with the Wall to our left for once. The views down the steep crags to the lough were impressive, and Reg got ahead of me as I fiddled with my camera.
The ridge dropped down again, this time to Sycamore Gap, occupied by the tree made famous by a certain film. Needless to say, we didn’t have the spot to ourselves! We had by now scented the fleshpots of Twice Brewed, and abandoned the ridge, not liking the look of the short but sharp climb out of Sycamore Gap, taking a path that traversed along the southern flanks of the ridge instead.
I had noticed dark skies behind us, and the rain caught us just as we reached the minor road that crosses the wall north of Twice Brewed. A mile of wet road walking took us to the ‘stealth’ campsite at Winshields (I say ‘stealth’ as there was no sign advertising its presence), where we retreated to the campsite’s common room, glad to get some shelter from the rain and cold wind, and to make use of their tea making facilities. The campsite owner kindly showed me a good pitch tucked away out of the wind, whilst Reg made use of the bunkhouse.
We met a couple of interesting characters at the campsite, an American man from Boston, and a German lady who later accompanied us to the pub, where much needed hot food and beer was consumed!
24th April 2023 – Twice Brewed to Haltwhistle – 5 miles
A short day for me, as I was leaving Reg at Haltwhistle to catch a train home.
But it was a most pleasant 5 miles, firstly along Hadrian’s Wall to Milecastle 42, then down into the leafy gorge of Haltwhistle Burn, easy going along an old tramway. We parted ways after tea and cake in a Haltwhistle cafe.
Although I have followed parts of the Pennine Way in the past whilst walking in the Peak, Dales and Pennines, this was the first time that I had deliberately followed the route over the course of a few days. It was a good introduction, especially in such good company, and I walked through interesting country that I had not visited before. Reg is a Pennine Way veteran, having completed the walk several times in the past, but I have to say that following a pre-determined route is not really in my walking DNA – I much prefer to wander through wild country, picking my own route, and feeling free to change my plans on a whim.
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